Hey Zahntech

Why do repair shops always tell me something else is wrong when I bring my car in?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Mon, 02 Apr 2007 16:54:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

So every time I take my car in for service, I tell the guys what I want. "Replace my brake pads and nothing else." "Do the 30,000 mile service and nothing else." "Don't call me to authorize more repairs - I want this and nothing else."

See, my car is a Lexus LS430. It's a nice car, right? And I just don't think there's anything wrong with it, and I do think that, frankly, you auto repair people are out to get every cent you can from me and will say whatever it takes to get me to authorize unnecessary repairs.

So, why do you still call and tell me I need to replace other parts? I mean, I know there's that squeak from the belts or something, but it's a Lexus. There's nothing wrong with my car!

Signed,
This isn't the repair order you're looking for (Jedi master voice)

Hey Jedi Master --

Sorry dude, your Jedi mind tricks won't work on me. There are only two reasons your service advisor is going to call you back to authorize more repairs, and you've only hit on the first.

1) They really are out to get you and will say whatever to get you to hand over the credit card.
2) You really do have something wrong with the car.

I know the industry has a lot of slimy people in it - frankly, that's the reason I went into business for myself.

Ultimately, it will come down to trust. Do you trust your mechanic?

But there are a few ways you can gather data that will help you determine if your mechanic is worthy of your trust.

-- Get referrals. Do you know anyone who has used that mechanic or shop before? Get the dirt from a current (or former!) customer.

-- Ask lots of questions. "Does this problem happen often?" is a great question to ask - especially since it's so easy to go online and search in auto forums (just use your favorite search engine) to find out if what your mechanic says is true.

-- Request to see the parts or the issue in action. And get context - if your mechanic tells you your brake pads are at 5 millimeters, that's kind of meaningless unless you know what they were when they were brand-new and how close they are to being completely worn down.

Finally, recognize that even on nice, newer cars, maintenance and repairs are necessary. In fact, the more complicated your car, the more things that can go wrong! I don't doubt that many consumers have been taken advantage of by unscrupulous repair shops and dealerships.

That said, a car is a mechanical contraption with many moving and computerized parts. Stuff breaks - and stuff needs to be replaced. And unfortunately for you, Lexus owner, the more expensive the car, the more expensive the parts. That's a choice consumers make when they purchase luxury brands (and I feel it too - I own an Acura and a Lexus).

So you've got to trust your mechanic - and only you can decide who is worthy of your trust.

Flushing my transmission, or flushing money down the toilet?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Wed, 03 Jan 2007 18:56:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

I went to a quick lube place and they said I needed my transmission flushed. What does that mean and why do I need it?

--Flushed with confusion

Hey Flushed --

Your automatic transmission has tiny passageways for fluid to flow through. If the fluid is not kept clean, these passageways can become clogged and then you can have serious transmission issues.

Automatic trasmissions hold from eight to 16 quarts, depending on the vehicle. If you just drain the fluid pan and refill it, you only change three to four quarts of this fluid, because most of the fluid is held in the tourque converter assembly. If you attach a flushing machine, you can push out all of the fluid and put all new fluid in.

Now these quick lube places seem to tell everybody that comes in they need a flush. That's likely because they need to pay for their transmission flushing machines! I generally recommend a drain and refill every 30,000 miles and a full flush every 60,000 miles.

If you think you're having transmission problems, sometimes a flush can help. Unfortunately, sometimes the symptoms that make you think you've got an issue are indeed symptoms of a bigger problem. Automotive repair facilities (but not necessarily quick lube joints) are equipped to make that call. I say not necessarily quick lube businesses because they may or may not have certified master technicians on staff - the skills required to change oil are a subset of those required to diagnose and repair all sorts of vehicle problems.

Hope that helps!

--Zahntech

Do I need to "winterize" my car?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Tue, 10 Oct 2006 21:00:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

Why do people make verbs out of nouns, like "winterize"? And do I need to "winterize" my car, and if so, what does that entail?

--Gettin' cold

Hey Cold -

I have no idea why people make nouns out of verbs, but I can tell you that "to winterize" is code for "to take advantage of uninformed consumers," at least when applied to cars.

What's especially funny (to me, at least) is that the Department of Transportation here in Washington actually says you should "winterize" your car. Specifically:

"While you should keep your vehicle in top operating condition all year round - for safety and fuel economy - it is especially important to get it winterized to avoid dangerous situations while traveling in fridge weather. "

Their web site then says:

Read your Owner's Manual and check the following:
battery and lights
antifreeze
defroster and heater
belts, hoses and filters
motor oil
tire pressure
wiper blades and windshield washer fluid
brakes and brake fluid

Uh....no. These are things that should be checked during every maintenance service, and most of them get checked every oil change. If you perform the scheduled maintenance services your owner's manual recommends, plus get your oil changed regularly, you're good to go for the winter.

Here in the Northwest, we sometimes use studded tires in the winter; the DOT allows them November 1 through March 31.

Happy motoring!

OEM parts, or not?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Tue, 15 Aug 2006 03:33:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

So, I'm thinking about using an independent shop for my auto repair and maintenance, but I'm concerned that the shop will use sub-standard parts. I have a Lexus, and I want the real-deal Lexus parts. Can independent shops get them, and should I insist on them?

--Name-brand freak

Hey Freak --

You're smart to be concerned about the quality of the parts you're getting, but you should have those concerns anywhere you go - dealership or independent shop. You can request from any shop that they use OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts - independents can get them just like the dealerships. (In fact, most dealerships will sell parts at wholesale cost to the independent shops - they want to make money any way they can, too.)

However, there are times to insist on OEM parts and times not to. Oftentimes, the part itself isn't made by Toyota or Honda - it's made by a third-party and just re-branded. In these cases, sometimes going with the "OEM" part can actually cost you more - you can get the same thing in a plain white box for much less. Unfortunately, you're not going to know which parts are like this and which aren't - which is why (and we always get back to this point) you've got to trust your mechanic. He'll be able to look up the specs, the true OEM, and other information and know that you're getting the same high-quality part without the pretty little car manufacturer logo on it.

When the part is made by the auto company, often it's better quality. You don't have to go with Toyota brake pads - but they're likely to be the best ones for your vehicle. If you want to save money or splurge on the highest quality, your mechanic can work with you to figure out the best possible part for your problem. Maybe it's the OEM part, maybe not.

Now, if you have a high-end luxury car, like my favorite, the Acura NSX, you might be interested in special parts - drilled rotors, superchargers, and so on. In this case, you're definitely better off finding an independent shop - it's unlikely the dealership will do this kind of work.

You have the right to know what parts are going into your vehicle; if you have concerns, make sure you discuss them with your mechanic. I know us techs, we love talking about parts. You'll have trouble shutting us up once you get us going!

What's the deal with timing belts?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Fri, 21 Jul 2006 01:36:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

My car has around 70,000 miles on it and I haven't replaced the timing belt that was due at 60k. Nothing appears to be going wrong as a result - do I really need to do this? It seems fairly expensive.

-- Late for a very (un)important date

Hey Late --

It's actually pretty important that you replace the timing belt at the suggested interval. Most vehicles have an interference motor, which means that the pistons will contact the valves if the timing belt breaks, causing severe engine damage. Such damage can cost you much, much more than just replacing the belt - but hey, perhaps it will be incentive to you to get a brand-new car! And if your vehicle doesn't have an interference engine, a belt breakage means you're stranded wherever it breaks, even in the middle of the 520 bridge between Seattle and Bellevue. Not good.

How likely is the belt to break? Well, it's a toothed belt made of rubber with fiberglass reinforcement. Like all belts, it stretches over time with use, and eventually could snap or strip the teeth. The replacement interval is somewhat arbitrary; however, few belts will break before this interval, and eventually all of them will need to be replaced. I believe that manufacturers have a greater interest in stretching out maintenance intervals because their vehicles will look cheaper to own (selling vehicles - and total cost of ownership as a component of that - is more important to them then getting your cash for oil changes and regular services). So that plus my experience tells me that the replacement interval suggested by your manufacturer is likely a good time to do the replacement.

Now, for the expense. It's not a cheap job - depending on the vehicle, it could go anywhere from $250 to upwards of $1,000. A low quote probably means that other parts such as tensioners, idler bearings, water pump, and cam and crank seals aren't included. These parts typically require replacement at the same time at the timing belt, especially in vehicles with long replacement intervals for the timing belt (90k+), because the odds of these parts lasting another 90k+ miles are fairly low. Failure of any one of these parts will guarantee a re-do of virtually the entire timing belt job, costing as much or more than the initial job. So when you're getting a quote (especially if you're comparing one service center to another), be sure to ask what it includes and why.

Is it a bad idea to buy a used car?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Fri, 30 Jun 2006 04:18:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech -

I am planning to buy a used car. What do I need to look out for? Is it better to take the financial hit and just buy a new car? I'm not comfortable with taking someone's word for the condition of the vehicle.

- Skeptical car buyer

Hey Skeptical -

My wife complains that she'll never own a new car, even if we can afford it, because I just can't see taking the depreciation that you do as soon as you drive a new car off the lot. That said, there are other good reasons to buy used: especially with new models or significantly revised models, you don't have history and a track record to show a car isn't prone to trouble. My wife wanted a particular car that came out a couple of years ago; research later showed that those cars had more instances of mechanical trouble than pretty much any other new car in the 2000s.

However, you can avoid heartache with a used car if you do the following things:
-- Insist on getting all the paperwork available. Not every used car will have records, but you should try.
-- Insist on taking a car you like to get it independently inspected. That means if you're buying a used Toyota from the Toyota dealership, drive the car off the lot and take it to a third party (an independent shop or even another, unaffiliated Toyota dealership). A third party will be able to perform a full vehicle inspection for usually half an hour to an hour of labor - and if they find significant problems, it will be well worth it. (You can also use the information the shop finds to improve your bargaining position should you still want the car; for example, if the car shows that the timing belt is due soon, and you know it will cost $400 to replace it, you can see whether you can negotiate $400 off the asking price.)

Note that if the dealership or car sales company won't allow you to take the car off the lot to be inspected, there's probably something they want to hide from you - or the car is such a hot seller that they don't have to extend you that courtesy. And in that case, buyer beware!

Oh, and if you're buying from a private party, ask him/her to meet you at the shop that will do the inspection, and you can go over the findings together.

Do I need new shocks and struts when I replace my tires?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Wed, 21 Jun 2006 15:52:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech -

I recently got new tires at a tire shop. While I was there, they told me I needed new shocks and struts because they had 60,000 miles on them. Do I need to replace them just because they are old?

--Oldie but still goodie

Hey Oldie --

NO!!!

While some parts do have a replacement schedule, such as timing belts and tune-up part (cap, rotor, plugs, etc), most others do not. With shocks and struts, you should think, if it's not broken, don't fix it. If your struts or shocks are leaking or the car bounces excessively over bumps, then yes you should replace them. But a simple inspection can determine if they are in need of replacement, not a mileage interval.

A reputable shop should be able to do an inspection fairly quickly, and many, including Zahntech, will do it for free.

Do I need to take my car to the dealership if it's under warranty?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 16:51:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech -

I have a newer car, and it's still under warranty. I'm really worried that I could void my warranty by not taking it to the dealership for regular services, but the dealership labor charges seem to be a whole lot higher than independent shops. Do I need to take it to the dealership as long as it's under warranty?

- Confused by the fine print

Hey Confused -

The answer is, sometimes. The Moss-Magnuson Act says that a warranty can't require you to purchase additional services from the warranter in order to keep your warranty in good standing (to read a brief legal analysis, check this link out). However, the warranter can GIVE you services, and they have to, obviously, provide parts and labor for free under the warranty if something goes wrong.

The basic rule of thumb is: If you have to pay, you can have the work done anywhere. If it's getting done for free to you, you have to do it at the dealership.

So, if you're told you have to get oil changes and regular services (15,000 or 30,000 mile services, etc) to keep your warranty in good standing, that's true, you do. But you can get them done anywhere - from Jiffy Lube or other chain stores to independent shops to other, competing dealerships! But be sure to hold onto your paperwork from other shops, though, so you can prove you did the required maintenance should you have to. (If you've lost or tossed your paperwork, though, a reputable shop will have maintained records and should be able to provide duplicates if necessary.)

But if your new car came with a program where you get free oil changes and major services, you've got to take it to the place that made that offer to you.

The law is there to protect the consumer by ensuring competition in the auto repair and maintenance market and giving the consumer a choice, thereby hopefully forcing shops to do their best work and offer decent prices. So shop around! It's your right!

Why do brake jobs cost anywhere from $60 to $400?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Tue, 13 Jun 2006 20:32:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech -

My brakes are making noise, and I'm wondering why there's such a huge range in price for "brakes" - I've seen it as low as $60, and the dealership quoted me around $400. Why the disparity? Can I get away with the cheap price?

-- Cheap squeaks

Hey Cheap squeaks -

You say your brakes are making noise. Some noise is normal, however, if your brakes have been quiet for some time and now they're noisy, you're probably right to think you need to have them checked out. The reason some prices are so low is that they're just including brake pads - not machining the rotors or new rotors, depending on what's necessary.

However, brake pads press on the rotors and wear into the rotors, so I never recommend just replacing brake pads. If you just replace the pad without "trueing" or "machining" the rotors, the new brake pad won't fit flat against the rotor and will be more likely to make noise, wear the brake pads oddly, and provide less braking power. Plus, if you have cheap brake pads, they're even more noisy and they will leave brake dust all over your wheels. So typically you should replace brake pads (and use reasonable quality pads) and machine the rotors at the same time. Rotors can usually last three or four brake pad replacement before they need to be fully replaced too, except in European cars. Most European cars require that the rotors be replaced at the same time as brake pads.

So, what's a cheapskate to do?

1) Make sure your brake pads really need to be replaced. Ask for a look at them and measurements of how many millimeters are left on the pads. Your squeak may not be due to worn pads.
2) Get good brake pads. There are a ton of different types - organic, semi-metallic, ceramic. Ceramic will cost more, but will be quieter and last longer. In my opinion, they're worth it.
3) Ask to see the rotors to know whether they can be machined or have to be replaced. Machining is obviously cheaper - but you can't do it forever without wearing the rotor down too far.

Do I really need to change my oil every 3,000 miles?

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Thu, 08 Jun 2006 17:50:00 +0000

Hey Zahntech --

This 3,000 mile oil change thing, is it really necessary? Is it some kind of secret plot by oil companies to keep themselves in big bucks? And what's up with this synthetic oil I keep hearing about? Should I use that stuff instead?

-- (Don't want to be a) Monkey Lube

Answer:
Hey Monkey Lube --

Unfortunately, it is real. Engines have come a long way in recent years, and oil has changed too, but it still degrades over time and needs to be replaced.

Every 3,000 miles is a good guideline for people who do a lot of "severe" driving. By severe driving, I mean stop and go, heavy traffic, short trips - in other words, the kind of driving most people do every day.

Newer vehicles often have a greater service interval and specific oil requirements. These requirements have proven to be adequate, but should not be exceeded - and you should always use the appropriate oil. If you want to change oil types, consult an expert at a service center (dealership or independent) first.

In most vehicles you can go with a full synthetic oil and extend your 3,000-mile oil change intervals much more, to about 7,000 miles. Unfortunately, although you will save time with this approach, you won't save money: you'll get your oil changed approximately half as much, but the full synthetic oil costs about 3 to 4 times as much.

There are also blends of natural and synthetic oil out there. However, these blends are unregulated: they might be 98% natural and 2% synthetic, and the label won't say. Plus, since the natural oil still breaks down, you can't really count on increasing your oil change interval by using a blend. However, the blend does help prevent sludge buildup in your engine, so if you're interested in protecting your engine a little more, a blend might be the way to go.

Once you use a synthetic oil, to truly reap the benefit of the synthetic you've got to stick with it. Synthetic doesn't sludge like natural oil, but if you switch off every oil change between synthetic and natural, eventually you'll still get sludging.

So pretty much, yeah, get your oil changed regularly, and if time is more precious to you than money, go with the synthetic oil.

Welcome to Zahntech!

noreply@blogger.com (Zahntech) — Thu, 08 Jun 2006 03:02:00 +0000

Want to go deep inside the automotive shop and have all your questions answered? You've found the right place. Send your questions to john@zahntechauto.com or post them here, and we'll answer them! We'll also ramble on about car stuff, because that's what we're all about.